Use plants such as waterlily ( Nymphaea) or water hawthorn ( Aponogeton distachyos) for pondlife to rest on and to help shade the water in summer. Include plants such as water iris ( Iris ensata) whose stems emerge through the water these will be the perfect spot for damselfly and dragonfly larvae to crawl up when they are ready to turn into adults. Plants that poke up out of the water for emerging larvae.Oxygenators such as hornwort ( Ceratophyllum demersum) or water starwort ( Callitriche autumnalis) give tadpoles and other larvae plenty of underwater cover from predators. Exotic ornamentals have value too and can be very attractive but avoid known invasive aquatic weeds. Native plants provide good habitats but some can take over so check carefully that the plant is right for your size of pond or water feature. Mid-spring to early summer are the best times for planting, once the water has warmed a little and plants have commenced growth. While letting nature do the planting is a fascinating process, many gardeners will want to give it a hand. You do not have to plant up your pond at all natural colonisation by plants will occur though its speed and the variety of plants will depend on the location of the pond in relation to other ponds. Check to see if your pump has a ‘wildlife protection system’ to prevent casualties from tadpoles, newts and other pondlife being sucked up into it. A wildlife pond does not need a filter but you may still wish to keep the pump to run a cascade or fountain, for instance. If your pond had fish in, chances are it would also have had a pump and filter system to help keep the water clear. So if you have inherited a pond with lots of fish, see if you can find them a new home in a fish pond or, if that’s not possible, why not make a new pond elsewhere in the garden which you can design more for wildlife in mind. Autumn is the least damaging time for making changes, after the height of the breeding season but before amphibians go into hibernation.įish are top predators in a garden pond and will also contribute to nutrient levels, making the pond prone to algae and blanketweed. Wildlife container pond step-by-step Wildlife container pond step-by-stepĮxisting ponds not specifically designed for wildlife can be adapted. Here are step-by-step guides on building a wildlife friendly container or rain-fed pond: This will ensure the water warms quickly in spring, making it more attractive to spawning frogs and toads. However, ponds with too much shade are not good for wildlife so ensure at least part of the pond is in full sun. Shade over part of the pond helps reduce problems with algae and is tolerated by many pond plants and animals. But don’t despair if you only have a small space: even a mini pond in a pot will provide a habitat and water source for garden wildlife. A depth of 20-60cm (8in-2ft) varied across the pond will suit the majority of pond flora and fauna. In general, the larger the pond the more wildlife you can expect to attract. For larger, natural ponds consider liners of ‘puddled’ clay or sodium bentonite. Butyl liners are the easiest way to create a natural-shaped pond pre-formed plastic or fibreglass ponds without this feature are best avoided. Wildlife makes no distinction between natural and man-made ponds provided they are accessible. If you are making a container pond which isn’t sunk into the ground, be sure to fix a ramp of some sort on the outside of the container, as well as the inside. This allows easy access for wildlife and, when water levels fluctuate, creates a damp habitat vital for many beetles, bugs and flies. Shape is crucial: try to incorporate at least one side of the pond with a long, shallow slope. Autumn and winter are ideal times to do this. If you’re creating a new pond, follow our step-by-step guide to pond construction.
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